http://edoflourishing.blogspot.jp/2016/05/bijin-beauties-of-edo.html
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oshiroi, o-shiroi (hakufun) おしろい / 白粉 white face powder
Rice bran powder was often used to wash the face until it was white.
- quote -
During the Nara Period (710–94), women painted their face with a white powder called oshiroi, and in the Heian Period (794–1185), a white facial color continued to stand as a symbol of beauty.
During the Edo Period (1603–1868), the culture of fair skin gained ground among commoners. The look sought after at this time, however, was a natural one. Ukkiri, a term for moist, naturally colored skin, appeared in a manual on beauty titled Miyako fūzoku kewaiden (A Handbook of Cosmetics in the Capital), which was published in 1813 and remained a bible for beauty through the next century. The work introduces a range of techniques for making the skin "beautifully white," including facial cleansing, facial packs made from a natural mineral form of lead oxide, and herbal treatments for acne.
... "The tone the Japanese seek to achieve is not milky white but translucent, like a polished stone. Since the Edo period, women have gone to great pains to achieve this." Records show that women spent a great deal of time putting on makeup and that cosmetics were geared toward accentuating the natural beauty of the skin. Miyako fūzoku kewaiden, for example, describes how oshiroi should be repeatedly applied and removed and the cheeks rubbed with a towel in order to make the skin look like porcelain.
- source : nippon.com/en -
- reference : edo o-shiroi white -
oshiroishi, o-shiroi shi 白粉師 making white face powder
source : メタボンのブログ
Different kinds of O-Shiroi were available, from Kyoto 京白粉, from Ise 伊勢おしろい, "natural white" 生白粉 and others.
Some were made including metal powders not really suited for the skin. Some were in powder form, some hard like soap, but all were applied with a special face brush.
suigin 水銀 mercury cloride was a main ingredient, so even the craftsmen who made the powder were exposed to this poison.
Others were white lead oxide, see below.
They had a special shop sign with a 白鷺 white heron.
新たな仙女香七変化粧 - Yokai Novel
A famous brand of the time was 仙女香 Sennyo-Ko.
The name was taken from the stage name of the Kabuki actor Segawa Kikunojō 瀬川菊之丞 Segawa Kikunojo (1693 - 1749).
The poor people had to use some face wash to keep the face as white as possible, but with the rise of rich merchants in Edo the use white powder among the townspeople spread quite fast.
- quote -
In time new products arrived on Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese ships. "Among the various compounds used, oshiroi [白粉 or おしろい], a white powder, and beni (rouge) [紅 or べに] contributed in constructing a woman's beauty. White powder was used to whiten the face and other parts of the body. The oldest form of face powder was made from white soil and rice flour. In the seventh century, the manufacture of keifun (mercury chloride) [けいふん] and empaku (white lead) [鉛白 or えんぱく] was imported from China. Their use was confined to the upper classes until the seventeenth century, when it became popular among the general public." The empaku "...was used extensively during the Edo period... It was mixed with water and applied with a brush. In the 1870s, the toxic quality of lead was recognized, and soon after a lead-free facial powder began to be domestically produced." (Ibid.)
In A Treatise on Chemistry by Roscoe, Cain and Schorlemmer (published by MacMillan, 1913, p. 685) the production of keifun is described: "Calomel has long been known and manufactured in China and Japan under the name keifun (light powder). This product occurs as a light bulky powder, consisting of very thin minute scales, lustrous, transparent, and white or faintly cream coloured. It is quite free from corrosive sublimate and is manufactured by heating balls of porous earth and salt, soaked in bittern (the mother-liquor of partially evaporated sea-water), along with mercury in iron pots lined with earth. The forms hydrochloric acid from the magnesium chloride in the bittern, the mercury sublimes into the clay covers of the pots, air enters by diffusion and the following reaction occurs: 4Hg + 4HCl + O2 = 2Hg2Cl + 2H2O. The cover thus becomes filled with a network of micaceous particles of calomel."
There is an article on "Gender and Hierarchical Differences in Lead-Contaminated Japanese Bone from the Edo Period" from the Japan Society for Occupational Health (Journal of Occupational Health, vol. 40, no. 1, 1998). In this study it was found that members of the samurai class had far higher lead content in their systems than did that of farmers and fishermen. Women in both strata had higher lead deposits in their bones than did their male counterparts. In the abstract to this article it states: "We assume that facial cosmetics (white lead) comprised one of the main routes of lead exposure among the samurai class, because cosmetics were a luxury in that period." While male samurai may not have used white lead makeup they were exposed to it through their contact with samurai females and this accounts for the lead content found in their bones. In fact it would seem that the wealthier the samurai the higher the lead content.
- source : printsofjapan.com/Index -
. Edo shokunin 江戸の職人 Edo craftsmen .
. shinise 老舗 a long-established store .
The store Sakamotoya 坂本屋 selling oshiroi白粉 the white powder for faces.
. oshiroi hake 白粉刷毛 cosmetic brush .
- reference : nichibun yokai database 妖怪データベース -
8 tales about 白粉 to explore.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
oshiroi, o-shiroi (hakufun) おしろい / 白粉 white face powder
Rice bran powder was often used to wash the face until it was white.
- quote -
During the Nara Period (710–94), women painted their face with a white powder called oshiroi, and in the Heian Period (794–1185), a white facial color continued to stand as a symbol of beauty.
During the Edo Period (1603–1868), the culture of fair skin gained ground among commoners. The look sought after at this time, however, was a natural one. Ukkiri, a term for moist, naturally colored skin, appeared in a manual on beauty titled Miyako fūzoku kewaiden (A Handbook of Cosmetics in the Capital), which was published in 1813 and remained a bible for beauty through the next century. The work introduces a range of techniques for making the skin "beautifully white," including facial cleansing, facial packs made from a natural mineral form of lead oxide, and herbal treatments for acne.
... "The tone the Japanese seek to achieve is not milky white but translucent, like a polished stone. Since the Edo period, women have gone to great pains to achieve this." Records show that women spent a great deal of time putting on makeup and that cosmetics were geared toward accentuating the natural beauty of the skin. Miyako fūzoku kewaiden, for example, describes how oshiroi should be repeatedly applied and removed and the cheeks rubbed with a towel in order to make the skin look like porcelain.
- source : nippon.com/en -
- reference : edo o-shiroi white -
oshiroishi, o-shiroi shi 白粉師 making white face powder
source : メタボンのブログ
Different kinds of O-Shiroi were available, from Kyoto 京白粉, from Ise 伊勢おしろい, "natural white" 生白粉 and others.
Some were made including metal powders not really suited for the skin. Some were in powder form, some hard like soap, but all were applied with a special face brush.
suigin 水銀 mercury cloride was a main ingredient, so even the craftsmen who made the powder were exposed to this poison.
Others were white lead oxide, see below.
They had a special shop sign with a 白鷺 white heron.
新たな仙女香七変化粧 - Yokai Novel
A famous brand of the time was 仙女香 Sennyo-Ko.
The name was taken from the stage name of the Kabuki actor Segawa Kikunojō 瀬川菊之丞 Segawa Kikunojo (1693 - 1749).
The poor people had to use some face wash to keep the face as white as possible, but with the rise of rich merchants in Edo the use white powder among the townspeople spread quite fast.
- quote -
In time new products arrived on Dutch, Spanish and Portuguese ships. "Among the various compounds used, oshiroi [白粉 or おしろい], a white powder, and beni (rouge) [紅 or べに] contributed in constructing a woman's beauty. White powder was used to whiten the face and other parts of the body. The oldest form of face powder was made from white soil and rice flour. In the seventh century, the manufacture of keifun (mercury chloride) [けいふん] and empaku (white lead) [鉛白 or えんぱく] was imported from China. Their use was confined to the upper classes until the seventeenth century, when it became popular among the general public." The empaku "...was used extensively during the Edo period... It was mixed with water and applied with a brush. In the 1870s, the toxic quality of lead was recognized, and soon after a lead-free facial powder began to be domestically produced." (Ibid.)
In A Treatise on Chemistry by Roscoe, Cain and Schorlemmer (published by MacMillan, 1913, p. 685) the production of keifun is described: "Calomel has long been known and manufactured in China and Japan under the name keifun (light powder). This product occurs as a light bulky powder, consisting of very thin minute scales, lustrous, transparent, and white or faintly cream coloured. It is quite free from corrosive sublimate and is manufactured by heating balls of porous earth and salt, soaked in bittern (the mother-liquor of partially evaporated sea-water), along with mercury in iron pots lined with earth. The forms hydrochloric acid from the magnesium chloride in the bittern, the mercury sublimes into the clay covers of the pots, air enters by diffusion and the following reaction occurs: 4Hg + 4HCl + O2 = 2Hg2Cl + 2H2O. The cover thus becomes filled with a network of micaceous particles of calomel."
There is an article on "Gender and Hierarchical Differences in Lead-Contaminated Japanese Bone from the Edo Period" from the Japan Society for Occupational Health (Journal of Occupational Health, vol. 40, no. 1, 1998). In this study it was found that members of the samurai class had far higher lead content in their systems than did that of farmers and fishermen. Women in both strata had higher lead deposits in their bones than did their male counterparts. In the abstract to this article it states: "We assume that facial cosmetics (white lead) comprised one of the main routes of lead exposure among the samurai class, because cosmetics were a luxury in that period." While male samurai may not have used white lead makeup they were exposed to it through their contact with samurai females and this accounts for the lead content found in their bones. In fact it would seem that the wealthier the samurai the higher the lead content.
- source : printsofjapan.com/Index -
. Edo shokunin 江戸の職人 Edo craftsmen .
. shinise 老舗 a long-established store .
The store Sakamotoya 坂本屋 selling oshiroi白粉 the white powder for faces.
. oshiroi hake 白粉刷毛 cosmetic brush .
- reference : nichibun yokai database 妖怪データベース -
8 tales about 白粉 to explore.
::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
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